The presentation of the Cruise collection for Maria Grazia Chiuri is more than just a fashion exhibition; it’s a journey through history and culture. Inspired by Christian Dior’s footsteps in various corners of the world, Chiuri has chosen Scotland as the setting for her latest creation, a tribute to the country’s textile richness and tradition.
In 1955, Monsieur Dior made his mark in Perthshire, Scotland, showcasing his work at the Gleneagles hotel. Now, Chiuri has brought Dior fashion to the majestic gardens of Drummond Castle, where inspiration merges with history. The unicorn and thistle, symbols of Scotland, are reinvented motifs, adorning heraldic embroideries reminiscent of the region’s exceptional savoir-faire.
But this collection goes beyond fashion; it’s a tribute to local craftsmanship. Chiuri has collaborated with Scottish workshops and artisans, such as Harris Tweed, Johnstons of Elgin, Esk Cashmere, and Robert Mackie, enriching her proposal with their valuable contribution. Drummond Castle, chosen as the setting, is a symbol of Scottish history, owned by the Baroness Willoughby de Eresby, who has been a lady-in-waiting to Queen Elizabeth II and an intimate friend of the painter Lucian Freud.
In this collection, fashion intertwines with narrative, creating an experience that transcends the runways. With each Cruise runway show, Dior not only showcases fashion but also shares stories, traditions, and a profound respect for the places it chooses as its backdrop. It’s a celebration of fashion as an art form and an invitation to travel through time and space, all on one runway.
Fusion of tradition and cutting-edge
The symbols of Scotland, the unicorn and the thistle, take center stage in Dior’s Cruise 2025 collection, reinventing the classic Millefleurs motif with heraldic embroidery that showcases the region’s exceptional savoir-faire. Inspired by the figure of Mary Stuart, this emblem is immortalized in Clare Hunter’s book, “ Embroidering Her Truth: Mary, Queen of Scots and the Language of Power.”
The homage to Scotland doesn’t stop there; a map of the country adorns some of the models, tracing a cartography of collaborations and cultural encounters unfolded for this runway show. Tartan, described by Christian Dior as a fabric that withstands fashion trends, is elegantly celebrated with modernity. From romanticism to punk, tartan has endured in fashion, now integrated into the Cruise collection with contemporary cuts and a palette of vibrant colors.
Photographs from the Spring-Summer 1955 presentation are transformed into prints and appliqués, merging with kilt designs and overcoats to evoke memories and enhance the unique atmosphere of the collection.
Dior Cruise 2025 looks combine contrasting elements, from divergent textures like velvet and lace to bold silhouettes with exaggeratedly wide sleeves. Short dresses with gathered skirts and embroidered corsets reveal a fusion of classic and contemporary, illuminated by lace collars that add a touch of sophistication to black. It’s a collection that celebrates Scotland’s rich history and innovation, taking fashion to new heights of artistic expression.
