Since her arrival at Kabuki Madrid, Silvia Ortúñez has revolutionised sommeliering with a fresh vision and a mastery that goes beyond wine. Her recent recognition as Best Sommelier of the Year 2024 at the prestigious Verema Awards confirms what critics and diners already knew: Silvia is an indisputable reference in the sector. At the head of a wine cellar with more than 600 references, her approach transcends the selection of labels and delves into the creation of unique sensory experiences, where each glass complements and enhances Alejandro Durán’s gastronomic proposal.
Today, in Look The Luxury, we delve into his universe to discover what defines his philosophy.
Silvia, being named Best Sommelier of the Year 2024 at the Verema Awards is a milestone in your career. How did you receive the news and what does this recognition mean to you?
A very pleasant surprise. Grateful, excited and very happy. It’s always good to be recognised for effort, struggle and sacrifice. I receive it as a charge of energy to keep improving and giving the best of myself on a daily basis.
Managing a wine cellar with more than 600 references in a haute cuisine space like this must be an exciting challenge. How do you define your criteria when it comes to selecting wines and creating innovative pairings?
The constant search for new references is a must. I don’t like to have a closed script. I prefer to listen to the diner and then decide. The magic of wine lies in the immense variety of options. More or less acidity, fresh, ripe, overripe fruit. Dry, sweet, mineral, saline… An endless number of options that allow us to adapt to the tastes of the consumer. Each person has a tolerance and a taste for the different nuances that we can perceive in a wine.
In recent years, sommeliers have evolved towards a more experiential approach. What trends do you think will mark the future of wine in haute cuisine?
I think we are at a time when, as with cuisine, people want to enjoy ephemeral moments that will remain engraved forever in their memory and taste register. Feeling is more important than knowing. Enjoying every sip and every mouthful in balance. I think we are on the right track, and the liquid part is gaining prominence at the table. Harmonies are becoming more and more important. The solid and liquid parts must go hand in hand.
You come from a family with a strong winemaking tradition and you practically grew up among glasses and barrels. How has this influenced your vocation and what advice would you give to those who aspire to follow your path in sommelier?
I feel very fortunate for the education I have received. My family has instilled in me values that are very necessary for my profession. Among them, the ability to listen and be empathetic, as well as sacrifice and humility. In the salon, as in everyday life, ‘treat them as you would like to be treated’ and, above all, that they enjoy their profession. We are lucky to make people happy with our work.
Throughout your career, you have explored countless pairings. If you had to choose a perfect combination, the one that never fails and always excites you, what would it be and why?
The only perfect combination is sharing a table, a toast and sensations with the right people.
