Paris Fashion Week 2025, held from 29 September to 7 October, brought together the leading luxury fashion houses to present their spring-summer 2026 collections, consolidating the city’s position as the epicentre of innovation, commerce and fashion culture.
Celine presented its second collection under the leadership of Michael Rider, which stood out for its commercial elegance, with impeccable tailoring, jackets with pronounced shoulders and Spanish-inspired trousers. Cocktail dresses were covered in pop-art prints and draped blouses evoked contemporary togas. A cashmere jumper with Celine’s equestrian emblem and the iconic silk scarf, distributed among the guests, reinforced the focus on smart merchandising. The show took place in the Parc de Saint-Cloud, creating an atmosphere of balance and serenity amid a week of creative changes.
Chloé, in Chemena Kamali’s debut as the new creative director, opted for bohemian and liberating codes: vintage swimsuits, bags and earrings inspired by retro hats, and sandals with summery evocations. The collection emphasised relaxed femininity and celebrated women’s emancipation with comfortable garments, artistic textures and references to the history of the fashion house. The front row brought together key figures from the sector, reflecting the attention on the brand’s internal transition.
Alaïa presented a vision of abstract and multicultural geometry at its new headquarters north of Paris. Pieter Mulier balanced the commercial with the artistic, using unexpected materials and international elements without falling into cultural appropriation. Fringe skirts, ethnographic headdresses, faux fur coats and braided leather garments stood out in a collection that pays homage to Azzedine Alaïa’s legacy while projecting it into the future.
Valentino, under the direction of Alessandro Michele, surprised with a striking staging based on the story of fireflies, a show where Italian craftsmanship and romanticism came together. The haute couture dresses, adorned with hand embroidery and flowing fabrics, interacted with a powerful colour palette and a selection of silhouettes that reaffirm the maison’s creative profile. The presence of celebrities and influential personalities underscored Valentino’s place on the international circuit.
Matthieu Blazy’s debut as creative director of Chanel was undoubtedly the most eagerly awaited event of the season. The Grand Palais was transformed into a celestial universe, filled with illuminated planets, to welcome a collection that blends the maison’s iconic heritage with the Franco-Belgian designer’s contemporary and personal vision.
Blazy opted for a spectacular setting that evoked the immensity of the universe, reflecting the idea that ‘we all look at the same sky’, the inspiration behind the show. The catwalk opened with a grey tailored ensemble, reminiscent of the masculine code that Coco Chanel adopted to liberate the female body and revolutionise fashion. Jackets were reinterpreted with nautical details and rolled-up sleeves, while skirts with slits added an unprecedented and carefree fluidity.
Tweed, Chanel’s emblem, gained nuances and lightness: from geometric openwork to vibrant colours and transparencies. Silhouettes took centre stage: oversized suits, waistlines reminiscent of sailor jerseys and reinterpreted flappers brought dynamism to the collection. Shirts, the result of special collaborations, and feather suits mixed with T-shirts added a touch of casual sophistication.
There were nods to the rebellious femininity of the 1920s, with bob garçonne cuts and choker necklaces in vibrant shades, a tribute to women’s emancipation. The balance between sobriety and exuberance, masculine and feminine, was the dominant theme, while the musical rhythm evolved from classical to a contemporary electro atmosphere.
The final ovation for Awar Odhiang, the star of the closing show, marked the birth of a new free, bold and fresh attitude for Chanel. As Blazy says, ‘Chanel is love and freedom, a modernity born of history’. This SS26 collection from Chanel is not only a reinterpretation of classic codes, but a statement of intent for contemporary fashion and the creative future of the maison.
