The acclaimed American designer, known for his work with music and entertainment icons such as Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, and Jennifer Lopez, Michael Costello, is set to dazzle with his debut in Spain at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. From 12th to 16th September 2024, at the IFEMA MADRID Exhibition Centre and other prominent locations around the city, Costello will showcase his Spring/Summer 25 collection. At 41, Costello has turned his passion into an internationally recognised career, from his beginnings on Project Runway to becoming a favourite among celebrities. His participation in this prestigious runway promises to merge his distinctive style with the vibrant Spanish fashion scene.
Today, we have the privilege of speaking with Michael Costello about his much-anticipated participation in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid and his latest collection.
Michael, your debut at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid is one of the most anticipated events. What elements of inspiration and vision have you incorporated into your collection for the Spring/Summer 25 season?
This collection is a reflection of my personal journey through loss, grief, and ultimately, renewal and hope. I’ve experienced profound loss in the last year, which really devastated me and sent me to a dark place mentally. As painful as it was, I channeled that hurt into something creative. The idea of life after death became central to my vision—this collection is about rebirth, much like a phoenix rising from the ashes. Spain’s culture, its art, architecture, and history, provided me with a sense of solace and inspiration. The beauty of its historic places allowed me to explore bold, dramatic silhouettes combined with a softness that represents healing. It’s raw, emotional, and powerful—just like the journey I’ve been on.
This collection is a love letter, not just to the beautiful, resilient spirit of the Spanish culture but everyone who has experienced a sense of loss. Loss of a loved one. Loss of identity, loss of purpose, loss of self. It’s about finding the strength to rise again, to rebuild, and to transform that pain into something powerful and beautiful.
From your early days on Project Runway to your participation in MBFW Madrid, how has your creative approach and design process evolved?
Project Runway was an incredible experience that pushed me to think on my feet and trust my instincts. I have learned to not make any excuses and to make it happen, no matter the time crunch. I have learned to be resourceful and to truly break out of my shell as a designer. But since then, my approach has matured and grown significantly. Back then, it was about showcasing technical skill and making bold statements. Now, I’ve developed a deeper understanding of storytelling through fashion. I take my time with each piece, ensuring it conveys a message, an emotion. My designs have evolved to become more about expressing vulnerability, strength, and identity. In Madrid, I’m bringing that evolution forward—there’s an intimacy in this collection that speaks to where I am as a designer today.
What aspects of your latest collection do you think will have the greatest impact on the audience, and how do they reflect your evolution as a designer?
I think what will resonate most with people is the emotional depth of the collection. Every piece tells a story, and I think people are going to feel the rawness of that. The balance of light and dark—both literally and metaphorically—runs through every look. I’ve incorporated rich textures, flowing fabrics, and bold cuts that symbolize transformation. It’s a deeply personal collection, and I believe that vulnerability is something audiences will connect with. As a designer, I’ve learned that fashion can be a form of healing, and I hope that comes through in a way that inspires others.
You’ve worked with numerous celebrities. What has been the most significant challenge in your career?
One of the biggest challenges has been balancing the creative freedom I crave as a designer with the specific needs and personalities of my celebrity clients. Each client has their own distinct style, and it’s my job to create something that fits them perfectly while still maintaining my own vision. Working with icons like Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, and Jennifer Lopez has been an honor, but the pressure to constantly outdo myself and create something that feels unique and groundbreaking each time can be intense. That pressure, though, has also driven me to push boundaries and grow as a designer.
In creating designs for artists such as Beyoncé and Lady Gaga, how do you personalise each outfit to fit the unique personality of each client?
With each client, it’s all about understanding their essence—what makes them feel powerful, confident, and themselves. For someone like Beyoncé, it’s about celebrating her strength and elegance while maintaining that element of surprise. For Lady Gaga, it’s about embracing her boldness, her unpredictability, and pushing the limits of what fashion can do. I always start with a conversation to understand how they want to feel in the outfit—whether it’s on stage, at a red carpet event, or in a music video. From there, I craft designs that not only fit their bodies but also reflect their personalities and the stories they want to tell. It’s a collaboration, and it’s an exciting process every time.
Your arrival in Madrid marks an exciting moment for Spanish fashion. What do you hope to achieve with your show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, and how do you anticipate your collection will be received?
My hope is to create a connection with the Spanish audience by presenting a collection that feels both universal and deeply personal. I want this debut to be more than just a show—I want it to be an experience, something that lingers with people long after the runway lights have dimmed. Madrid has such a rich fashion scene, and I’m honored to be a part of it. I hope that my collection, which draws inspiration from both Spain’s beauty and my own personal journey, will resonate with audiences and introduce a fresh perspective. More than anything, I hope they see the evolution of my work, and that it speaks to them in a meaningful way.
