Desborre, the charming eatery by Lucía Grávalos in Madrid’s Austrias neighborhood

Gone is the learning acquired at Mentica Gastronómico and Amicitia. Now, the very young chef, Lucía Grávalos, surprises us with a new opening in the capital. A fighter, passionate, and unstoppable, Lucía takes us into Desborre, her most intimate project located near the Teatro Real.

A beautiful space that immerses us in a surprising cuisine with innovative touches and great respect for the land. A concept starring the best raw materials, from small ecological producers, aiming to become a restaurant that aims for zero waste. An honest and responsible cuisine, in which Grávalos has placed all her enthusiasm. A new beginning. A dream come true that explains the sparkle in Lucia’s eyes.

Located in the authentic Madrid of the Austrias, Desborre opened its doors last February. An old building from 1900, restored to lead us into a cozy space with striking exposed brick walls, beautiful wooden windows, and precious antique mirrors. A welcoming place where small details always become the main protagonists, with elegant tableware, delicate embroidered napkins, and beautiful antique silverware on tables without tablecloths, which fully immerse us in the essence of Desborre. A charming contemporary eatery where you can taste the formidable culinary skills of Lucía Grávalos.

Its name, Desborre, is a nod to that first vine shoot in spring. An emerging rebirth from the ground that perfectly captures the new start of the young chef from Calahorra.

With the aim of achieving a cuisine with the challenging goal of reaching zero waste, sustainability and the quality of wonderful raw materials from small producers always prevail at Desborre. A project that has been the result of three years of work and now immerses us in the most beautiful and ambitious project of Lucia.

In our visit to Desborre, we began by savoring a spectacular array of appetizers that started with impressive double-cooked cracklings. Extremely crispy on the outside and flavorful on the inside, they welcomed us in the best possible way to this charming eatery.

We continued with a fantastic pickled vegetable dish. Another surprising appetizer that conquered us with its intense flavor. A wonder to discover how the young chef can work wonders of such caliber with something as simple as some vegetables.

The next appetizer consisted of delicate asparagus with handmade mayonnaise, toasted garlic, citrus touches, and parsley oil. An authentic delicacy of a dish, which shared the limelight with some very fleshy peppers that are peeled by hand, roasted, and dressed with raw garlic and Picual olive oil from Jaén in the same way Lucía’s grandmother used to. We ended this magnificent appetizer tasting with a delicious venison loin that they cure themselves with spices and let it dry until it reaches its optimal point. A new project they are working on to start making their own cured meats.

From the appetizing starters on Desborre’s menu, we shared the curious two-course vegetable stew. A sublime recipe that we enjoyed from start to finish before moving on to savor one of its star dishes, cauliflower confit in hazelnut butter with a base of smoked bacon, crowned with a crispy cauliflower. A dish that immediately enamored us and will undoubtedly be the reason we return to Desborre very soon.

For the main courses, we tasted two fish dishes. The first, a sensational two-course cod dish. A recipe that consists of a delicious cod brandade tartlet with smoked paprika and Parmesan cheese, followed by a robust cod loin cooked at low temperature with pig trotter sauce that is truly spectacular.

The second, a delicate hake dish also consisting of two courses. First, we started with a delicious hake stew fritter that led us to a seductive hake loin with Thai artichoke sauce and fresh artichokes. A seasonal recipe that is light, healthy, and extremely pleasant on the palate.

We finished with a daring and risky dessert, called “chromatic green,” which Lucía prepares with three vegetables in different textures. On one hand, she uses a green asparagus mousse accompanied by a cucumber digestif ice cream topped with a crispy broccoli meringue and pea leaves. A different way to end the evening that initially surprises but gradually enchants us… spoonful by spoonful.

Desborre, the sustainable, responsible, and exquisite cuisine of the young Riojan chef Lucia Grávalos, immerses us in an unforgettable gastronomic experience characterized by flavor and honesty. A proposal with soul and essence, which reflects the craftsmanship and strength of its creator. A beautiful declaration of intentions behind the Teatro Real that, dish after dish, manages to enchant our palates. A good reason to book right away, isn’t it?